NOTE – Readers are welcome to give back to Texas Fly Caster anytime. We welcome fresh writing from new sources, and as long as it conforms to being about “Fly Fishing Culture on the Skids,” I can safely say it will have a good chance it gets published. Photography is a plus. And you will be rewarded handsomely, at the same rates everyone is rewarded, for their efforts. (+-0.00)

I arrived in Galveston around 7-am, the early morning sun was doing its best to warm the chilly morning, but it wasn’t enough.

A friend had recommended several spots, the most scenic seemed to be the South Galveston Jetty accessed out of Apfel Park on the East end of the island. A sign demanding $8 to access the beach and threatening to tow my vehicle greeted me, but no one was at the park. I left a love note on my car asking any authorities to please call me and I would gladly pay the admittance fee.

Courtesy Photo – Immanuel Salas

As I tugged on my breathable waders and strapped into my fly fishing back pack a Galveston Parks employee drove by and I chased them down the beach as if they were a roosterfish in “Chasing Down the Man”. Instead of “combs” he had a gold toothed smile and politely told me the park was free at this time of year so I didn’t have to pay for admittance. I jokingly asked them if that is because there are no fish here right now. He literally laughed as he drove off …

Back to my gear and pre-fishing rituals (which includes rigging the fly rod while humming the soundtrack to Tron out loud) and soon I was on the rock jetty and headed south. It was awesome to look at, strong south winds bought crashing waves across the VW Bug-sized boulders. One gap in the jetty walk was easy to cross but another further down would require stepping off into the tide pools on the east side and circumventing the gap to get back on. Being short on time and with a camera girl I didn’t want to drown, we focused on the surf side before working over the tide pools.

Courtesy Photo – Immanuel Salas

Two flicks of glass minnows were all I saw in about 2 hours which was disappointing because the pools looked very fishy. Easy to see the sand bar that eventually joins the jetty and promised to hold fish in its many dark recesses. But it lied. No fish.

Moved to the east shoreline where visible depressions and dark areas yielded nothing. Very nice with the waves rolling as the tide slowly swung back towards a 1:55-pm low tide. I worked a variety of clousers and small baitfish patterns while the lady chunked a variety of GULP.

Our time was winding down and we had an 11am lunch date so we packed it in. The seagulls, terns and pelicans kept laughing at our inability to catch. Mocking. Hundreds of them, waiting for us to leave so they could begin feeding without showing us where the fish were.

I don’t like getting mocked, though it happens often. So I charged them.Fly rod in hand, running like one of William Wallace’s boys. I charged.

Courtesy Photo – Immanuel Salas

And they flew away.

Met our friend for lunch (La Tortuga – touristy, but the flavor and service made it well worth it. Affordable, too.) Mike the waiter and I got to talking about, guess what: fishing. He said the jetties don’t have any fish right now and if I wanted to get into flounder I should try the shoreline east of the road leading to Seawolf Park. White or salt and pepper GULP, Mike said. And pack extra jigheads, because you are going to lose some on the snags.

So off I went to Pelican Island, waited on the drawbridge which seemed to take forever. I’m pretty sure people on their way to fish are supposed to have the right of way in all instances.

Around 1:30-pm I arrived at the road, stopped before all the NO PARKING signs and saw dozens of cars parked on the shoulder. I was afraid I was too late.

Luckily many people were leaving. Mostly because they had their landing nets slung over their shoulder full of doormat sized flounder. Holy Crap! As I slammed it into park and threw my door open to fast load into my rig I saw at least six people walking back to their cars with their two fish limit and big ole smiles.

I thought “Even I should be able to get on fish in here.” I walked a short trail through the brush and hit the shoreline. It was busy, but there was plenty of space between anglers so I started stripping fly line and headed in. Red and white clouser and intermediate line and I went to work. And it was work. Wind full on in the face was killing my cast, dumping it about 25 feet in front of me. Worked all angles, paralleling the shore, towards the shore, out deeper, behind the back. All I got was funny looks from spincasters chunking various colored GULPs and plastics. Then they’d hook up.

Enough of that. I grudgingly stowed the flyrod (you can stop reading at this point if you want to) and brought out my camera girl’s “Lady Pflueger” pink spincaster and went to town with a white GULP. It was my self-imposed punishment.

Weather had changed at some point, was actually warm out, and the tide shifted too. Working a slow retrieve back towards the shore and got that THUMP. Lowered the rod tip, breathed a long calming breath and began my ten second count… Then I set that hook. I felt the flounder slide towards me on the hookset and, more concerned with dinner than sportsmanship, I reeled that little 14incher in.

Slid him onto shore and strung him up (BEFORE unhooking him. I’ve played that little game with Mr. Flounder before. And lost.). On the belt stringer and I waded back in. This time with the fly rod, determined to make it happen.

But I didn’t. Went the rest of the day without another hook up. I witnessed other fisherman taking fish so I know the bite hadn’t stopped. Nope, it was just me.

Most people took on GULPs or swimbaits, brighter colors, including tandem rigs. The water wasn’t very clear, but it was green and you could make out the rocks and rubble underneath. Plenty of sand and soft stuff for the flounder to play in. Not sure on water temp, though it was warmer than the air. An old timer that had been out there every day this week (jealous) said he thought the run was really just getting started.

After seeing everyone walking out with limits and size I was a little disappointed to only have the one fish. And he wasn’t on the fly (forgive me). I did talk to others who didn’t get any, and ran into more people while getting ice that had been skunked for weeks, so in the end I felt good and knew I had a nice pan fried dinner in store. So it was a good day.

Breathable waders, wool socks, fishing shirt and pants kept me warm and dry throughout the day. Drove home that eve, 8 hours roundtrip for 6 hours of fishing and one flounder. Don ‘t doubt my addiction.

An interesting aspect of fly fishermen is their ability and need to read conditions, the bite and their own instincts to be able to adapt on the water. That includes changing retrieves, flies, tactics, etc… I think it also means being versatile enough to know when to store the fly rod and hook them with a white GULP on a pink spincaster.

Be versatile,

Immanuel

Kodak’s new Zx5 has some new upgrades and downgrades.

Nearly thirty years in the photography business has taught me at least one thing; Count on Kodak to take a good thing, overprice it, overhype it, and finally tweak it into obscurity.

Rather than a long treatise on Kodak, the US corporation, let’s just take one simple product the Kodak “PlaySport” consumer grade waterproof camera. I have sold a few to friends and fly fishers through articles on Texas Fly Caster, and phone conversations. It’s a straight forward camera that fits easily in a fishing shirt pocket, vest or pack. And that’s where mine stays, my Simms waist pack, virtually all the time.

I actually like mine so much that I was looking to upgrade to the newest PlaySport Zx5 a few weeks ago. Of course, there’s upgrades galore to the new PlaySport. They have moved the on/off button to the top (fantastic idea!), and have a “Share” button (which means a wifi connection?).

The upgrades to the new camera are significant, when compared to the previous Zx3 interim upgrade to the PlaySport. Default recording in .MP4 is a huge plus, as is something even more critical to fly fishing photography – macro focusing down to ~ 4 inches. Now, I am sure you would have to fiddle around with mode settings and go into “macro” mode to focus that close, but we are talking some fantastic fly tying video details – if that’s your cup of tea.

Guess what? They have also reduced the sensor size from 1/2.5 to 1/3.2, meaning overall quality, and the ability to record in low light is further reduced. And the real downgrade comes in the battery department. We wander far and wide as fly fishers, not just out in the back yard to shoot video of kids in our swimming pools, so batteries and battery life is a much higher priority than the average user considers. Kodak, in their infinite wisdom, has decided to install a permanent battery – invisible and non-removable. What does this mean for users? We already know batteries have an effective life of perhaps two years under best case conditions. We depend on backup batteries when we take these cameras fly fishing, so if one goes down, we have a backup charged and ready to go. Now, once the camera dies, and believe me it will die, you’re done for the day. No more video or 5mp stills … just put it away because it is now dead weight. When the internal battery finally quits holding a charge, pack it up and send it off for repairs – to Kodak! Are you starting to get the picture – the big picture?

Unfortunately, Kodak never gets the clue until it’s too late. Will they go back to a removable battery? Probably not. Will the downgrades continue? It’s Kodak. If you are interested exclusively in video, the gap widens between Kodak and better choices. If you can live without a “Share” button and without macro focusing, run to Amazon real quick and look at the Zx3 Kodak PlaySport.

If you can live without macro function, and share isn’t in your digital vocabulary, look at the Kodak Zx3.

Note – Sometimes it’s good to turn full circle, and bring good information to those who are just getting started in fly fishing. I was recently inspired to write a long article on how to select your first fly fishing “outfit” after seeing a popular bulletin board showing another “Which fly rod, reel, outfit …” post that, as usual, quickly devolved into brand name throwing-mine’s better than yours thread. They come along every few months, and I dutifully play along. Now, with all due respect to those posts, posters and bulletin board proprietors, I am offering the “ULTIMATE POST” (note the quotes) on selecting your first fly fishing outfit, post number 695, and since this is textbook stuff, I won’t do readers the disservice of breaking it down into multiple posts. For those of you who are well past this phase in your addiction, fret not, Post Number 695 will move down very soon. For the new addicts, please feel free to think for yourselves – that’s what we do at Texas Fly Caster. Corrections and opinions welcome as always.

How to Get Started in Fly Fishing Gear 2011
Introduction

After years of following countless bulletin boards discussions on fly fishing, one topic raises its head over and over again. That topic begins with “Which …,” and is followed by various words that all fall in the category of fly rods, fly reels and fly lines this person should buy when just starting out in fly fishing. I have finally decided to write the ultimate treatise on your first fly rod, reel and line you should choose for your needs.

How Serious are You?

The first question is; How serious are you about fly fishing, or how serious do you think this disease can get for you? If you donʼt really know much about fly fishing, donʼt have fly fishing dreams when you sleep, or watch/own no fly fishing DVDʼs, then youʼre probably not a 4 on the 1-to-4 scale. Four is for the person who is definitely addicted and is just waiting until someone in their life isnʼt looking to pull the trigger for their first fly rod/reel purchase. At the other end of the spectrum is a one, someone who fly fishes perhaps four times a year, or less, and has trouble remembering which closet their rod is in. A wild card is location. Your location could be more or less conducive to fly fishing.
The more serious you are, the more you want to invest in your initial fly rod/reel/line purchase.

How Serious are The Fish?

Fly rods come in weights. Heavier weight rods require bigger reels to hold bigger lines to throw bigger flies to bigger fish. The ensuing fight is fair when the rod matches up well with the fish – size and species. Matching a fish to a rod is critical because you need to be able to change the fishʼs direction, land and release the fish as quick as possible to help insure the fishʼs survival. (Fly fishing is pretty heavily dominated by the Catch-and-Release philosophy.)
There are other important functions of the fly rod weight as well. Not only are higher weight rods tuned for bigger fish, and bigger flies, they also have an ability to cut through the wind and cast greater distances in all situations.
Rods come in weights from 000 to 14, with those being the extremes. For our practical considerations, we will think in terms of 2 to 10 weight rods. A 2 weight rod is for fighting small fish, typically a pound or less, and these rods come in very practical short lengths to be backpackable into mountain streams. A short 2 can be deadly when stalking cutthroats in streams six feet wide at altitude in Colorado. I consider a 5 weight to be the middle of the road, and a rod to keep in my car at all times.
A 10 weight rod is heavy enough to land tarpon, fight big redfish, and throw the ugliest big flies youʼve ever seen into the wind.
Within the weight categories of rods comes a tricky term “action.” Think of a rodʼs action as a rodʼs stiffness. In general a slow action rod is very flexible throughout, and forces a slower casting motion from you. Most “combos” (rod comes with reel) are a slow to slow medium action. Saltwater rods and big game rods typically have a medium-fast to fast action. More rod backbone translates into easier casting and easier fighting. If you get into large largemouth bass, you will want to consider a saltwater rod as well as heavy bass specific rods.

ROD SUMMARY

• Consider learning to cast before even purchasing a rod. Your casting motion will have a lot to do with your happiness with your first rod choice.
• Rod/reel combos typically offer an average line average reel and average rod. If you know you are going to be serious, consider purchasing each separately – tailoring them to your specific abilities and waters.
• Rod/reel combos are the perfect choice for some people. They make great guest setups, and are perfect for someone unsure as to just how serious they will be in a yearʼs time.
• Donʼt buy a freshwater rod if you live near the salt. If you are in freshwater, consider the species and size fish you will be catching. A freshwater carp gives a fight almost as good as any Gulf Coast redfish.

Reels

Many fly fishers consider reels glorified “line holders.” The fundamental nature of fly fishing and gear history indicates that fly reels are considered significantly less important to fly fishers than their conventional fishing counterparts. That said, reel manufacturers have conceived clever designs and artwork intended to catch fly fishers. Reels get increasingly blingy as time goes by. The truth is, you are looking for a reel that has a good drag system and balances your rod as closely as possible. Most lines of reels come in incremental sizes that cover different line/rod weights. This is a great advantage to you because you will be able to change the line out if you are going up or down in small weight increments. A typical reel can cover three line weights such as 3-5 or 6-8! Save up for extra spools with backing, or simply change out your line to the rod you are taking, and youʼre good to go.

If you are in this sport long enough, your reels will outlive your rods, and you will find the matchups changing to satisfy your changing rod needs. Rods can be heirlooms. Reels will be heirlooms – if you spend a little extra up front. And most fly reels are such simple engineering that all you have to do is rinse them with fresh water, and youʼre done. Saltwater requires a little extra attention, but remember that machined aluminum is for saltwater applications, while cast aluminum will have a hard time surviving the salt exposure. At the “line holder” end of the engineering spectrum is the “click-and-pawl” drag system typically used in lightweight trout setups. Click-and-pawl reels have no real drag system, and rely on hand pressure on the spool to apply specific drag tension when fighting a fish. Thatʼs how real fly fishers do it! Not really, but thereʼs a time and place for click-and-pawl reels, just not for a beginner.

One reason why reels come in weight ranges is because (once they are loaded with line and backing) they need to balance with the rod. What does that mean? A quick way to see if a rod and reel are balanced is to find your thumbʼs natural resting spot on the cork handle. Then, put a finger on the downside of the handle (reel dangles in down position), and see if and where the rod rests in its natural horizontal plane. Tip down means the reel could be too small for the rod, and tip up means the reel could be too heavy. These tolerances are pretty wide, so unless the balance points are way off in one direction or the other (more than say three inches), donʼt worry too much about this early on. In the long run, an unbalanced setup can lead to casting fatigue. The right reel size also insures that you have enough room for both line and backing for the fish you are after.

When fighting bigger fish, or trophy fish, you will be glad you have a good reel to “go to,” and I suggest every beginner get in the habit of being able to “go to the reel” for any fish at any time. This will make it an exercise in muscle memory when thereʼs a big fish that needs to be disadvantaged by your reelʼs smooth and accurate drag! Having to “go to the reel” is one of the best problems to have in fly fishing, that and wondering if you have enough backing.

REEL SUMMARY

• Reels can be high or low tech.
• Reels have specific design and materials for fresh or saltwater use.
• If you care about a reel, pay special attention to the drag system.
• Match the reel to the rod.
• Get in the habit of “going to the reel” to take advantage of the reelʼs drag.

LINES

Fly line selection has exploded in the last few years, as marketers at line manufacturers have figured out that fly fishers would buy lines aimed at specific fish. Thus, thereʼs the carp line, and different bass lines, as well as specific lines for other fish. When starting out in fly fishing, you are better off purchasing a line that is multi-purpose. A freshwater bass line could be good for freshwater use, while a general warm saltwater line could work for most southern saltwater applications. Lines that tout accuracy or distance can be much easier to cast for beginners, as they run a half weight heavier than sold. (A 5 weight line is really a 5.5 weight line.)

Breakage is not a concern for fly lines, overall durability is. More expensive lines are more durable than cheaper lines. Clean and re-coat lines regularly, and they will last exponentially longer. Todayʼs water is extremely hard on lines. The first thing you will probably consider changing is your fly line because itʼs the cheapest and easiest component to change. If you spent the extra money on a reel, you may as well plan to shell out some more – for a spare spool / line and backing. You will be glad you did, and backups to your gear are imperative for the addict.

CONCLUSION

Determine how serious you are. Take a casting lesson, or two, before even purchasing a fly rod and reel. If you donʼt know if fly is for you, spend less for your first outfit. Fly fishing can be frustrating. Once you know youʼre in for the duration, sell off the beginner gear, and upgrade. No matter what, todayʼs fly fishing gear is light years ahead of what passed for beginner fly gear a few short years ago.
Match your rod to your fish, your casting style and your overall fishing locations. You will know pretty quickly that one rod is never enough.

Take care of your gear, and it will always work.