QUEST FOR THE COMMON CARP

I talk carp with Joel Hays at the Lowbrau in Pilot Point, Texas – after a midday trip to the flats on Lake Ray Roberts last weekend.

The fly fisher’s quest for common carp seems to show no signs of letting up any time soon. Guides talk openly amongst themselves about fly fishing fad fish, whether a pursuit has run its course, and what hasn’t really been done yet. Personally, I don’t know what the next fad fish is, as it seems through the increasingly affordable ability to produce, package and distribute DVD’s with the latest greatest fad fish chase, the fad fish list is shrinking quickly.

The staying power of a pescatorial pursuit is hard to measure. Certainly things get “hot” then peak, and cool off or disappear. By now, fly fishing for carp has certainly peaked, then settled in as a very practical adventure that is easy to access and a challenging enough fish to keep fly fishers coming back for more. Predictions of the carp fly fishing phenomenon’s demise seem to be a bit premature all these years later. It may well be “so 2004,” but 2004 was a heck of a good time compared to the last couple of years. Maybe carp are the new “Golden Oldies,” sentimental favorites with a look only a true fan could appreciate.

Carp have even sprouted their own cottage industry of fly lines, flies, clothing, artwork and dozens of sites dedicated strictly to the pursuit of carp. Whether or not carp are “IN” for the long haul, they certainly have the support of an industry looking for hero fish.

“Zissou’s” first common carp caught on fly with me recently on Lake Ray Roberts, Texas, while fishing the flooded flats.

The (Not So) Short List

There is a list of things anyone hoping to have success carp fishing, on the Ray Roberts flats for instance, needs to have a fair chance at one of the sharpest freshwater fish you will ever experience.

If we think in terms of outfitting yourself, head to toe, when wade fishing for carp on the flats, you will have a clear picture of everything you need to get close to, stalk and catch carp.

HEAD – Carp are most active in the warmer months when the sun is high in the sky, and your pursuit of carp is typically during the brightest overhead sun of the day. Translation; you’ll need good headgear like a fully brimmed fabric or straw hat. No hat will protect your face from reflected light though. So think about getting a straw hat large enough to wear a BUFF underneath. Coverage like this will keep your skin in tact, and as the bug population increases, you’ll also have a fighting chance against them as well.
EYES – Your eyes are crucial to your success flats fishing for any fish, and especially carp in freshwater. Remember my saying; “See the fish. Be the fish?” Forget about having a successful trip if you aren’t equipped with polarized sunglasses in a rose, brown or tan color – NOT the deep saltwater grey or blues. They don’t have to be expensive, they just have to work. Decrease your odds by 75-percent if not wearing polarized sunglasses.
NECK – Again, the BUFF if worn properly, will do a fantastic job of keeping the sun off your neck, and prevent premature “turtlenecking.”

Be sure to check out my old post on sun protection for fly fishers.

TORSO – You will need a well ventilated shirt, with my bias toward a fishing shirt. They can range from a long sleeve flats tee, to a vented fishing shirt with all the pockets. I buy the cheap Academy brand, and have the bottom shirt tails custom cut square to keep them from dragging in the water and allow for longer arms (by purchasing a larger size shirt), and greater ventilation. Shirt colors need to be common sense – from dark blue to white, and anything in between. Carp have keen senses, and that certainly includes eyesight. I have even worn camouflaged blue tie dyed with fantastic success – getting me extra close to carp – to the point they swim between my feet if I remain still. During cooler months, before the Texas heat really kicks in, I wear synthetics and when I need the extra cooling I wear cotton that I can get wet to keep cool.
PANTS - Think in terms of tan or colors that are close to tree or mud color. If you are following along, the gradation runs from brown pants to blue sky shirt. If you blend in, you will be able to get a lot closer to carp, and they will even swim toward you. Cotton is pretty much pointless as it gets heavy and dries too slowly. Your most practical fabrics are synthetics, and my favorite came from REI, and have nothing to do with fly fishing. If you wear shorts, you will get sunburned.
FEET – Wade fishing for carp can be quite the expedition. Some guys just get a cheap pair of hiking boots and waste those on the muddy flats. I can imagine that they would not last too long since they are made for dry land use. Your feet can make or break your trip. Substantial distance can be involved. You need to be comfortable, and that starts at your feet. I wear a pair of wading boots – nothing fancy, and then some neoprene gravel guard boots to keep debris out from between my feet and boots. It works, even if neoprene boots are the shortest lived thing in fly fishing clothing, they are something I consider indispensable.

RODS REELS LINES FLIES LEADERS

RODS

We are always trying to match up fly rods to carp, and as long as they keep making new fly rods, we will keep trying to apply them to a carp. Generally, I like shorter rods that give an advantage to dapping for docile carp who haven’t sighted me. Rod weights can run anywhere from five to seven, but you’re welcome to come out with a three and two pound test leader and try your hand at a IGFA record – if that rows your boat.

REELS

Chances are you will go to your reel when fly fishing for carp, and during primetime, chances are you could see that backing. Now I’m not saying you need a Tibor, or Hatch reel. You need a reel that has a good drag, and you need to be comfortable getting carp on the reel as soon as practical. Strip in a carp at your own peril.

LINES

I am about to order a new (to me) carp line to see what they’re all about, but you want a line that turns over at short distance, and at the same time has a soft enough presentation to not spook carp. Unless carp are spawning, in which case they don’t eat much, their senses are acute and they are highly “spookable.”

LEADERS

It has been years since I bought a leader of any type, but I have come to count on tying my own leaders using Seaguar Invis-X fluorocarbon in two pieces – a 20 or 25-pound butt section and a 4, 6 or 8-pound tippet section. I prefer the sink rate I get with fluorocarbon, and it’s pretty obvious that fluorocarbon is invisible to carp.

FLIES

Stock up on store bought (or make your own) Bonefish Bitters in gold/brown. Other flies like the Coyote Carp Fly are available for purchase in the FLY SHOP, and you can do well with dragonfly nymphs and other flies. Sometimes carp get very picky, and other times all you have to do is be in the ballpark of what they may be looking for on a particular day, or entomological time of year.

Here’s what is most important about fly selection: FLIES NEED TO RUN HOOK UP. You will lose lots of flies running hook down. Roots of vegetation, rocks and all sorts of debris will reach out and snatch your fly right off the end of your tippet if it runs hook down.

FOOD WATER

Wading the flats is like walking in the surf when you factor in the suction of mud on your feet. It’s not for the faint at heart, and four hours will just about do you in for the rest of the day. A wading stick adds stability, and the lighter weight EVERYTHING you carry will be rewarded in the long run. In a four hour (1/2 day) of flats walking, you will burn off some calories, and need to take in plenty of water. I carry a Nalgene of water and a couple of Cliff’s Bars to knock the edge off – and I am not a heavy eater anyway. Going through two Nalgenes in the hot months is pretty commonplace. A typical distance on shoreline is about a two mile wade.

SUMMARY

Everyone has their own ways of doing things and never more so than in fly fishing. I am always interested in hearing about your experiences, and they would certainly add depth to this post. That said, I think this just about covers all the things you may need, besides what fits between your ears, to have a safe and successful outing fly fishing freshwater flats for carp.

BOOKING A TRIP

This post pretty much covers all the technical aspects of the fly fisher’s quest for common carp. The technique, nuances, entomology and tips come with booking a trip with a guide experienced in going after carp on fly rods. Feel free to go to my contact page and let me know if you are interested in booking a guided trip, and be sure to check out the comments on this article to pick up any things that may have been inadvertently left out, or recommendations from others. Otherwise, I look forward to seeing you out there!

Ross Evolution LT reel going mean green. Photo – Texas Fly Caster

As part of a new push to go green in our last year of existence, I thought I would go green with some reels that fell into the box of gear that will be tried and tested this spring.

We all know what a fly reel does in fly fishing. It holds line and brings drag to bear on fighting fish. Drag. If you’ve fished with me, you’ve probably heard me preaching at you, “GO TO THE REEL!” Why not use your reel for its intended purpose, and practice going to the reel for the time you have that big one on. It makes me cringe to watch these guys on TV, stripping in big fish, only to get them close to landing and have them run through their floating line, while the personality keeps finger pressure on the line between his finger and the cork. (Insert primal scream here.)

As I have started looking toward catching larger fish, I also find the large arbor reels very efficient at picking up slack line – the easier they spin, the less effort devoted to that as well. What really did generate some small upgrades for me was drag, or the loss of functioning drag in my Orvis BBS reels. I don’t make a habit of cranking down drag, or leaving it cranked down when I put my reels away. I back off all my reel’s drags – no matter what kind they are. That habit was ineffective on the two Orvis reels I have in key sizes that I use very often. So often in fact, that I knew I would need something to replace them should I ship them off for repairs. And the silver finish on the BBS reels has to be a carp deterrent – it’s so bright and reflective. Before these reels came along, I was even considering getting into the anodizing business – just so I could get the shiny off stock store bought reels!

Ross Evolution LT4 Reel – Photo Texas Fly Caster.

THE ROSS EVOLUTION LT
First up is the Ross Evolution 4 reel. We have all read those first gear(head) reports with the second-by-second, “I waited for UPS, I opened the package, it was gleaming like a tarpon’s a&&, etc …” So, I will spare you the titillating description, and more importantly get back to you with performance updates as time moves on. The Ross is green. The finish is good, but a little more opaque than I like. It must have pretty darn good bearings because it free spins quite well. This reel is less of a wide/large arbor, and more of a straight up large arbor reel. For future reference, the drag is extremely smooth (with extra fine incremental clicks) and kicks in promptly and progresses smoothly as the drag is tightened down. Release of the spool is push button, with a smooth movement and solid clicking sound. Clean, tight inside and out.

BVK Machined aluminum reel by Temple Forks Outfitters. Photo – Texas Fly Caster

NEXT UP TFO BVK

The Temple Forks BVK reel fell into my hands as a trade in on an extremely disappointing machined Prism reel. What a disaster that reel was, after using it only a hand full of times. Being bulked up in the larger reels, I was hoping for something to fit my TFO 4wt Finesse, and the reel prescribed to me was the I, and of course in green. I appreciate, as always, the willingness of the guys at TFO to walk me through the aisles and show me the options. Fit and finish are bright green, and the machining is more square-edged than the Ross reel, which makes for obvious style differences. The BVK reel feels good in hand, the attention to details like the TFO logo on top of the frame and the “1″ and “BVK” on the stem, all add a touch of class to the reel. Inside, it looks something like the same setup on the Orvis BBS reels. The spool has a small spring loaded swing-arm-like release that is easy enough to find and engage. Removing and replacing the spools is smooth, and like the Ross, there’s no need to visually match anything up to get it to lock on. Then, there’s the drag … the first twenty-two clicks from zero drag do the same thing: nothing. Once the drag does kick in, there are plenty more clicks that actually mean something, and each one has value. It will be interesting to see how this reel handles the real world of fly fishing, but I am pretty optimistic that it will turn in good results. I kind of wish they would have covered that darn slotted screw in the drag knob with a little cap or something though. Read more details about the TFO BVK Fly Fishing reel.

BVK Machined aluminum reel by Temple Forks Outfitters has interesting details. Photo – Texas Fly Caster.

If finish matters to you right out of the box, the TFO reel’s overall anodizing is brighter more even and as JH would say, “sexier” than the Ross reel. If drag matters to you, then the Ross is smarter right out of the box. If price matters, then there’s only about 25-dollars separating these two reels in the smaller sizes. If reliability and durability matter to you, you’ll just have to wait and see how this story ends. Stay tuned …

Read more about the Ross Evolution LT.

Note – Sometimes it’s good to turn full circle, and bring good information to those who are just getting started in fly fishing. I was recently inspired to write a long article on how to select your first fly fishing “outfit” after seeing a popular bulletin board showing another “Which fly rod, reel, outfit …” post that, as usual, quickly devolved into brand name throwing-mine’s better than yours thread. They come along every few months, and I dutifully play along. Now, with all due respect to those posts, posters and bulletin board proprietors, I am offering the “ULTIMATE POST” (note the quotes) on selecting your first fly fishing outfit, post number 695, and since this is textbook stuff, I won’t do readers the disservice of breaking it down into multiple posts. For those of you who are well past this phase in your addiction, fret not, Post Number 695 will move down very soon. For the new addicts, please feel free to think for yourselves – that’s what we do at Texas Fly Caster. Corrections and opinions welcome as always.

How to Get Started in Fly Fishing Gear 2011
Introduction

After years of following countless bulletin boards discussions on fly fishing, one topic raises its head over and over again. That topic begins with “Which …,” and is followed by various words that all fall in the category of fly rods, fly reels and fly lines this person should buy when just starting out in fly fishing. I have finally decided to write the ultimate treatise on your first fly rod, reel and line you should choose for your needs.

How Serious are You?

The first question is; How serious are you about fly fishing, or how serious do you think this disease can get for you? If you donʼt really know much about fly fishing, donʼt have fly fishing dreams when you sleep, or watch/own no fly fishing DVDʼs, then youʼre probably not a 4 on the 1-to-4 scale. Four is for the person who is definitely addicted and is just waiting until someone in their life isnʼt looking to pull the trigger for their first fly rod/reel purchase. At the other end of the spectrum is a one, someone who fly fishes perhaps four times a year, or less, and has trouble remembering which closet their rod is in. A wild card is location. Your location could be more or less conducive to fly fishing.
The more serious you are, the more you want to invest in your initial fly rod/reel/line purchase.

How Serious are The Fish?

Fly rods come in weights. Heavier weight rods require bigger reels to hold bigger lines to throw bigger flies to bigger fish. The ensuing fight is fair when the rod matches up well with the fish – size and species. Matching a fish to a rod is critical because you need to be able to change the fishʼs direction, land and release the fish as quick as possible to help insure the fishʼs survival. (Fly fishing is pretty heavily dominated by the Catch-and-Release philosophy.)
There are other important functions of the fly rod weight as well. Not only are higher weight rods tuned for bigger fish, and bigger flies, they also have an ability to cut through the wind and cast greater distances in all situations.
Rods come in weights from 000 to 14, with those being the extremes. For our practical considerations, we will think in terms of 2 to 10 weight rods. A 2 weight rod is for fighting small fish, typically a pound or less, and these rods come in very practical short lengths to be backpackable into mountain streams. A short 2 can be deadly when stalking cutthroats in streams six feet wide at altitude in Colorado. I consider a 5 weight to be the middle of the road, and a rod to keep in my car at all times.
A 10 weight rod is heavy enough to land tarpon, fight big redfish, and throw the ugliest big flies youʼve ever seen into the wind.
Within the weight categories of rods comes a tricky term “action.” Think of a rodʼs action as a rodʼs stiffness. In general a slow action rod is very flexible throughout, and forces a slower casting motion from you. Most “combos” (rod comes with reel) are a slow to slow medium action. Saltwater rods and big game rods typically have a medium-fast to fast action. More rod backbone translates into easier casting and easier fighting. If you get into large largemouth bass, you will want to consider a saltwater rod as well as heavy bass specific rods.

ROD SUMMARY

• Consider learning to cast before even purchasing a rod. Your casting motion will have a lot to do with your happiness with your first rod choice.
• Rod/reel combos typically offer an average line average reel and average rod. If you know you are going to be serious, consider purchasing each separately – tailoring them to your specific abilities and waters.
• Rod/reel combos are the perfect choice for some people. They make great guest setups, and are perfect for someone unsure as to just how serious they will be in a yearʼs time.
• Donʼt buy a freshwater rod if you live near the salt. If you are in freshwater, consider the species and size fish you will be catching. A freshwater carp gives a fight almost as good as any Gulf Coast redfish.

Reels

Many fly fishers consider reels glorified “line holders.” The fundamental nature of fly fishing and gear history indicates that fly reels are considered significantly less important to fly fishers than their conventional fishing counterparts. That said, reel manufacturers have conceived clever designs and artwork intended to catch fly fishers. Reels get increasingly blingy as time goes by. The truth is, you are looking for a reel that has a good drag system and balances your rod as closely as possible. Most lines of reels come in incremental sizes that cover different line/rod weights. This is a great advantage to you because you will be able to change the line out if you are going up or down in small weight increments. A typical reel can cover three line weights such as 3-5 or 6-8! Save up for extra spools with backing, or simply change out your line to the rod you are taking, and youʼre good to go.

If you are in this sport long enough, your reels will outlive your rods, and you will find the matchups changing to satisfy your changing rod needs. Rods can be heirlooms. Reels will be heirlooms – if you spend a little extra up front. And most fly reels are such simple engineering that all you have to do is rinse them with fresh water, and youʼre done. Saltwater requires a little extra attention, but remember that machined aluminum is for saltwater applications, while cast aluminum will have a hard time surviving the salt exposure. At the “line holder” end of the engineering spectrum is the “click-and-pawl” drag system typically used in lightweight trout setups. Click-and-pawl reels have no real drag system, and rely on hand pressure on the spool to apply specific drag tension when fighting a fish. Thatʼs how real fly fishers do it! Not really, but thereʼs a time and place for click-and-pawl reels, just not for a beginner.

One reason why reels come in weight ranges is because (once they are loaded with line and backing) they need to balance with the rod. What does that mean? A quick way to see if a rod and reel are balanced is to find your thumbʼs natural resting spot on the cork handle. Then, put a finger on the downside of the handle (reel dangles in down position), and see if and where the rod rests in its natural horizontal plane. Tip down means the reel could be too small for the rod, and tip up means the reel could be too heavy. These tolerances are pretty wide, so unless the balance points are way off in one direction or the other (more than say three inches), donʼt worry too much about this early on. In the long run, an unbalanced setup can lead to casting fatigue. The right reel size also insures that you have enough room for both line and backing for the fish you are after.

When fighting bigger fish, or trophy fish, you will be glad you have a good reel to “go to,” and I suggest every beginner get in the habit of being able to “go to the reel” for any fish at any time. This will make it an exercise in muscle memory when thereʼs a big fish that needs to be disadvantaged by your reelʼs smooth and accurate drag! Having to “go to the reel” is one of the best problems to have in fly fishing, that and wondering if you have enough backing.

REEL SUMMARY

• Reels can be high or low tech.
• Reels have specific design and materials for fresh or saltwater use.
• If you care about a reel, pay special attention to the drag system.
• Match the reel to the rod.
• Get in the habit of “going to the reel” to take advantage of the reelʼs drag.

LINES

Fly line selection has exploded in the last few years, as marketers at line manufacturers have figured out that fly fishers would buy lines aimed at specific fish. Thus, thereʼs the carp line, and different bass lines, as well as specific lines for other fish. When starting out in fly fishing, you are better off purchasing a line that is multi-purpose. A freshwater bass line could be good for freshwater use, while a general warm saltwater line could work for most southern saltwater applications. Lines that tout accuracy or distance can be much easier to cast for beginners, as they run a half weight heavier than sold. (A 5 weight line is really a 5.5 weight line.)

Breakage is not a concern for fly lines, overall durability is. More expensive lines are more durable than cheaper lines. Clean and re-coat lines regularly, and they will last exponentially longer. Todayʼs water is extremely hard on lines. The first thing you will probably consider changing is your fly line because itʼs the cheapest and easiest component to change. If you spent the extra money on a reel, you may as well plan to shell out some more – for a spare spool / line and backing. You will be glad you did, and backups to your gear are imperative for the addict.

CONCLUSION

Determine how serious you are. Take a casting lesson, or two, before even purchasing a fly rod and reel. If you donʼt know if fly is for you, spend less for your first outfit. Fly fishing can be frustrating. Once you know youʼre in for the duration, sell off the beginner gear, and upgrade. No matter what, todayʼs fly fishing gear is light years ahead of what passed for beginner fly gear a few short years ago.
Match your rod to your fish, your casting style and your overall fishing locations. You will know pretty quickly that one rod is never enough.

Take care of your gear, and it will always work.