… Then it must be because the trip to the Louisiana marshes for redfish went well.

I know you must wonder about fly fishing writers who float around in the blogosphere, and have stories that start so clearly; “I’m going fishing … ,” and end right there. Not a word. That’s because they (the writers) haven’t learned the simple trick – don’t talk about a thing in advance, and only write about it after you have fish porn firmly in camera. Texas Fly Caster’s policy has always been to report – whether it was fishing or catching – no matter how much it effort is spent in striking out. There was a moment of doubt (as to this policy) on this trip, but only a moment.

The trip to New Orleans was originally planned for before Christmas, but the guide called it off and we rescheduled it due to weather. It’s nice when you can make that change and not explain it to readers. So we scheduled it for January 16. That’s one day of fishing sandwiched between two flights, one late the day before, and one early the day after – a real in-and-out adventure.

As if to add to the excitement, one of my friends just got back from the marshes, a Tailwaters sponsored trip to the Plantation. What he told me was enough to plant a few seeds of doubt. “The water has to be clear, and the sun needs to be shining,” he warned. “Otherwise you can’t see ‘em. They were acting strange anyway. We didn’t see them slamming bait on the grass lines, and you just couldn’t see nervous water,” he said.

He asked who my guide was, and I couldn’t say; we were going to be running through Uptown Angler and one of their guides. “Your guide can make you or break you there. Ours … just didn’t seem to want to really work to find fish. No matter what, you’re going to make a fairly long run to get to the fish,” he said. That begins to put the idea of shooting another episode of Kayak Fishing Journal in proper perspective. We got off the phone, and I checked my e mail for the porn he said he was sending. Sure enough, a bit more fuel for the fire.

Adding fuel to the fire – Louisiana Marsh redfish porn. Courtesy Chris Weatherley

The Premise

Lest I skip over how I was dealt the luck that takes me to one of the hottest fly fishing spots in the US, if not the world (because of famous winter bull redfish), let me tell you about a guy. He’s an interesting cat, and happens to be a photography client of mine and a photographer himself. Jerry Goodale and I discovered our mutual interest in fly fishing only recently, when we started working together more often on projects last year. Not only does he have a healthy fly fishing addiction, he has focused some of his energy on a few clients that cater to that addiction. A fly fishing lodge in Canada and a resort in Belize have both done a decent job of feeding his need for fly fishing. He’s a hunter as well, and Africa made his itinerary last year. I think you get the picture, the big picture. A brilliant strategy, I think.

How I came into favor, I will not presume to question. It could be my abundance of charm, or steadiness with a camera that helped me make the grade. I wonder a little, but care less. You know what they say, “The sun even shines on a dog’s a$$ some days.” It all started with an obscure text that went something like, “Louisiana redfish.” To which I replied, “yeah awesome.” He responded, “fly fish for reds in Louisiana.” Cryptic texts are part of the package. “Yeah, they’re there now,” I replied in growing pain for not being able to go. “Do you want to go?”- he tapped out. “Sure, but I can’t afford it,” I tapped back. “No. Do you want to go?” – again. I knew the answer to this one, “yes” was the simple, but loaded, answer. Besides, it’s not good to act too excited, you know – cool.

The Plan

It’s a simple plan really, and from Dallas on Southwest Airlines, it is a hop-skip-and-jump to New Orleans. One stop on this flight in Houston, and we are on the ground in New Orleans in about three hours time. With no plane change and flying Southwest, checking a valuable bag of rods and reels is a less risky proposition.

From the airport, we’ve got to get downtown to the hotel. (TIP – We took the airport shuttle at almost $40 each round trip. Do some research, and see if you find a better way.) The ride takes us right into the heart of New Orleans, and it’s still easy to recognize landmarks brought to us in living color – courtesy Hurricane Katrina. The photojournalist’s search for waterlines, any telltale flotsam and jetsam is, for this photographer, unavoidable. It looks untouched, much different from the time I was here about six months after the hurricane – even cleaner it seems than when I was here for the IFTD show last year.

We checked in, dropped bags, and hit the street for some Cajun food. If you are going to stay in the Big Easy, you are going to be eating – a lot. I can think of no better place to stay, nor any more practical solution for the cohorts who may be traveling with you (not fishing), than to be in the heart of New Orleans. They can have their fun while you indulge your addiction. The food, and lodging in The Big Easy does come at a price though. It depends on the time of year, but you’re looking at a four $$$$ on my artist’s five scale. *Check comments for restaurant details.

We hold our priorities in order, and are lights out by ten on a Sunday night. Sleep is easy, even though the onetime city, now a town, never ever sleeps. Shut eyes, alarm goes off.

On a Monday Morning Sidewalk

Captain John Iverson pulls up in a beautiful example of a bygone era, a 1994 Ford Bronco, two tone brown over gold, perfect on the outside. Attached is, I rub my eyes for luck as much as sleepiness, one of the sweetest boats on the street – a Mitzi. Does it get any better?

Introductions, and we find a place for our rods in the back of the Bronco, and are off hitch rattling echoes down the empty city streets outside the Quarter proper, to the Marshes. Captain John gives us a rundown of where we are going -the Biloxi Marsh, and where we are launching – Breton Sound Marina. The boat ride will take about an hour.

“You get your fishing licenses,” he asked and we replied in unison, “No.” So many different states, and the usual idea is to hit some sweet smelling bait shop, scribble out the forms, get a copy and off to the more important things. “No problem. You have smart phones? You can do it online or call this number, ” The Captain had it together, but do yourself a favor and purchase your license in advance, and forget about navigating a governmental website with a smart phone – make the call if you’re on the road.

Talk amongst guides inside Penny’s Cafe.

Just about the time I confirm the billing for a day’s worth of legal Louisiana redfishing at $8.50, we stop at Penny’s Cafe in what I guess is Hopedale. A shrimp poorboy and ham and egg sandwiches are waiting inside. Captain John stops to talk shop with a few guides gathered at a table in the restaurant – the early birds. A couple of them have a serious case of the raccoons, those goggled eyes from their sunglass coverage, the exposed skin extra Cajun crispy.

Gassing up the Mitzi at Penny’s Cafe. Just another day in paradise.

Back in the truck and on the move, the banter bounces around the inside of the Bronco, and passes through enough fly fishing talk to give Captain John a clue of the skills of his clients. We talk sighting, and how to directionally “clock-in” to twelve o’clock high. “Another guide said it’s like playing a video game with a broken console,” in reference to zeroing a client in to sight a red. We laughed on that for a while.

Captain John Iverson at the wheel of his 1990 Ford Bronco, headed for the boat launch as the sun finally shows through in South Louisiana.

TO BE CONTINUED …

NOTE
Not only is Joel Hays a prominent “golden bone” (aka. carp) guide here in North Texas, he is also my personal beer guide. The following is from his Power Point presentation on the Holiday Beer category of beers, and was a small part of his weeks long classes on the entire history of beer, all the way to present day. I attended almost every class this fall, yes at church, the tailgate tastings in the parking lot – wind, rain, blustery fronts coming in at full speed – were also attended by a few die hards like myself.

As always, thanks to reader Joel Hays for providing this valuable and timely information. If anyone else has anything pertinent to the goals of Texas Fly Caster, be it fishing, eating, drinking, music or “Fly Fishing Culture on the Skids” feel free to send it in.

HOLIDAY ALES

WASSAIL
“Wassailing” is an ancient southern English tradition that is performed with the intention of ensuring a good crop of cider apples for the next year’s harvest.

It also refers to both the salute ‘Waes Hail’ ( a contraction of the Middle English phrase wæs hæil, meaning literally ‘good health’ or ‘be you healthy’) and to the drink of wassail traditionally drunk as an integral part of the ceremony.

While the beverage typically served as “wassail” at modern holiday feasts with a medieval theme most closely resembles mulled cider, historical wassail drinks were actually mulled strong ales or mead.

Ale, sugar, ginger, nutmeg and other spices were placed in a bowl and warmed to combine flavors. Brandy was often added to “stabilize” the mix and increase the level of alcohol.

WINTER WARMER ALES
These malty sweet offerings tend to be a favorite winter seasonal. Big malt presence, both in flavor and body. The color ranges from brownish reds to nearly pitch black. Hop bitterness is generally low, leveled and balanced, but hop character can be pronounced. Alcohol warmth is not uncommon.

Many English versions contain no spices, though some brewers of spiced winter seasonal ales will slap “Winter Warmer” on the label. Those that are spiced, tend to follow the “wassail” tradition of blending robust ales with mixed spices, before hops became the chief “spice” in beer. American varieties many have a larger presences of hops both in bitterness and flavor.

GERMAN HOLIDAY BEER
Most German Holiday releases are a type of Doppel bock or a Munich Dunkel lager. These often have higher alcohol contents while smooth, rich and complex, but without being heady or heavy. Holiday (or Advent) brews tend to be historically defined as using the best ingredients possible.

Both styles boast brilliant ruby hues from the large amounts of Munich malts used, and these malts also lend a fuller-bodied beer. The lagering process also lends much depth and richness.

Bitterness is often moderate, with just enough to balance out any sweetness. Hop varieties used tend to be of the German noble varieties, like: Tetnang and Hallertau.

AMERICAN HOLIDAY ALES
This is an ever-changing category with examples from English Strong Ales to Belgian Trippels. Some are spiced while others (like the EXCELLENT Rahr) stay true to historic styles.

- Joel Hays

POST NOTE

In case you are in shouting distance of Denton, Texas, there is a new light in town, the Mellow Mushroom, here in Denton, and they have without question, the greatest beer selection north of Dallas and Fort Worth. They even have a membership card that earns points for different beers – that goes toward “stuff.”

If you choose to drink, drink responsibly. Designate a driver. Cast carefully as well. Have a Happy Thanksgiving wherever you are. GO FISH BLACK FRIDAY and leave the shopping to those more responsible than ourselves.

Colorado is synonymous with beer and micro breweries, and Pagosa Springs, Colorado, is no exception.

Pagosa Brewing Co., like all things Pagosa, should be part of your plans for a fly fishing adventure in Pagosa. Located at 118 N. Pagosa Bl., Pagosa Brewing has a landmark trailer outside, and beer garden where you will find locals sitting, talking, eating and partaking of the many different beers they have for the true connoisseur of micro brewed beer. Depending on the day, it could be a dark, wheat or any number of other variants.

Hopps growing in the beer garden at Pagosa Springs Brewing Co.

Also, not to be misunderestimated, they have free wi-fi access. That’s something you want to pursue and attach yourself to if you have the need to “get out” to the world. Otherwise, turn all electronic devices off, put your trays and setbacks in the upright position, and forget about it.

The warm insides of Pagosa Springs Brewing Co.

Don’t stop at the liquor store next to the grocery store, and don’t bother with the grocery store(s). Just go straight to the brewery, walk right in and get yourself a growler of whatever happens to be the flavor. They run about 16-dollars, but just like the best of things in life – they give, OK sell, refills! My empty awaits the next ride to Pagosa, and I will loan it to you if you promise to bring it back. Take me along, and you can keep it.

Cheers from Pagosa Brewing Co. in Pagosa Springs, Colorado.