Sorry it took so long to get this one out, but if you read the previous, you may imagine the ugly reality of reality stepping in on, and stomping on, my fishing. I’m spending this evening getting ready for departure to Beaver’s Bend tomorrow for a three day get away – from Denton drivers mostly.

We had a great, and detailed response from Dusty Montgomery after his past weekend at Beaver’s Bend and the entomology class he took there last weekend. I will get those details out soon because there is another class in May and it sounds like a must attend learning event. No Fly Fisherman Left Behind.

Away we go with Joel’s fourth installment! Let us all hope the technophotogods smile down on me this weekend as I pull out the old video camera, and try and spice things up with a little visual variety on – texasflycaster.

Just as with any other form of trout fishing, the best thing you can do when you arrive at the stream is to get the rod out of your hands and watch for a few minutes. Are there trout actively rising? What are they feeding on? Are there fish in specific lies (larger fish) or sporadic rises from small brookies zipping around the run? If you can isolate a food source you can match a more specific attractor pattern. Why throw a Stimulator when the fish are obviously busy with Red Quills? Even though this is not “match-the-hatch” fishing, the larger brooks and cuts (and rainbows and browns) in these streams are large for a reason. Color in the fly selection is not as important as general shape and size. Everything is in miniature – including feeding lanes. Trout will not get that long to look at a fly and make the decision to strike very quickly.
Before you make your first cast, you need to decide how you will fish the whole run. Most of these streams are broken into runs from 10 to 60 feet long, separated by riffles, drops, bends, brush, etc. Fish will be concentrated where they have the following: (1) some kind of cover, (2) food coming by in a regular fashion, and (3) a place where they are fighting as little current as possible. Combine all three of these and you immediately cut the amount of “fishable” water by half. These streams are usually very shallow – “cover” might be as simple as a depression that’s a few inches deeper than the surrounding water. Keep an eye on sunlight hitting the water. These fish will avoid direct sunlight at all costs unless there’s a big pay-off. Realize that the best (biggest) fish in the run will usually occupy the best position. Have a plan that maps out your position, casts, and line management BEFORE you start casting.
Speaking of casting, rod selection is critical. Overhanging brush, roll casts, small feeding lanes and the necessity of straightening a leader with only 10 feet of fly line require a special rod. Your nine foot, five weight, fast action rod is not going to serve you well. This is the realm of the small stick. An eight foot rod is long for this fishing and I prefer 6 to 7 footers. A three weight is as large a line as needed. In this range, graphite may or may not be your friend. The shorter Scott G2’s and Orvis Superfines are wonderful small stream rods with actions slow enough to function in tight quarters. Budget conscious anglers can do little better than the 2 weight St. Croix Avid or TFO Finesse – both are great rods for the price. Fiberglass is making a comeback as a material of choice and in its new form makes some of the best small stream rods available. Check out the Scott F series, or the semi-custom Steffen Brothers rods from Arizona. These are rods with FEEL! Bamboo rods were made for this kind of slow, methodical fishing and if you can afford one, have at it (just make sure you get one with a spare tip).
You will find yourself doing little traditional casting in small streams. Most of the time some sort of roll cast is involved and several times a day you’ll be presented with a situation where a “bow and arrow” cast is the only solution. A bow and arrow cast is performed by holding the fly between your thumb and index finger of your “line” hand. Then, with only about a foot of fly line past the tip, you push the rod toward the target with the other hand (holding the rod by the lower half of the handle). The rod should flex up. When the aim is right you release the fly and the recoil of the rod should straighten the leader. No backcast. No rollcast. About as stealthy as you can get with a fly rod. You are obviously limited in distance and more than one rod has been broken by a poorly executed “bow and arrow” – but it works!

More from Master Joel Hays to come soon …